The Ukrainian Twin Cities

We live in a suburb of Minneapolis, which is of course one half of the Twin Cities. In Ukraine we are in the middle of another set of Twin Cities: Donetsk and Makeevka. I'm not sure that they are seen that way, but it's a fair analogy. Knowing a little of these cities helps put the rest of the story in context, so as promised here's a post on our locale. Again, this is more about our impressions, with links for the more intellectually curious.

Donetsk is the big city, capital of the Donetsk region (or oblast.) This'd be similar to an American state or Canadian territory. It is on the eastern edge of Ukraine, not far from the Russian border. As such, and considering its history (see links below), it's not a suprise that it's a heavily Russian-influenced city. It was close to destroyed in WWII, and was rebuilt after the war. A rennaissance of sorts seems to be happening in recent years as Rinat Akhmetov - a rather wealthy and influenial person and Donetsk resident - has been trying to attract things like Euro 2012 to the city. (Mr. Akhmetov runs the local soccer football team, Shakhtar; I went to a game last year when they played Dynamo Kiev and I recommend that if you're going to watch soccer, you do so in Europe. It was fun, and the fans made Packer fans look disinterested. Akhmetov's also built quite the compound right next to DCU, but that's another matter.)

Anyway, Donetsk's urban center is a beautiful place. There is Pushkin Boulevard, a large pedestrian mall with cafes, playgrounds, sculptures, fountains and gardens. I would love such a mall in our city. There is a puplic square, Lenin Square, with an open plaza and more fountains. There are many restaraunts and high-end stores, and much traffic.

Some of the sights we've seen include the Figures Park, Tsar's Cannon and pretty much everything you see here. Chain restaraunts, including McDonald's and our Ukrainian favorite, Puzata Hata. We love downtown. Much to do, interesting architecture and good food.

Once you get out of downtown, though, the neighborhoods are a different story. Residences are primarily in apartment buildings rather than houses. Few people own homes, and most live in flats. The economic condition of this industrial area (Donetsk is a large coal/gas/industrial region) mean much upkeep of buildings is forgone in lieu of more basic needs. Western culture is coming, as demonstrated by the presence of supermarkets and "big box" stores, but there are also small neighborhood markets within walking distance for most people.

There are more cars than there used to be, but public transportation is both cheap and abundant. At least on the major roads. We can take a bus to downtown Donetsk for ~$.10 each person, each way (and kids ride free!) Marshutkas cost little more (~$.30) for a faster ride. Just be prepared to be close to other people as the buses and marshutkas will pack in as many riders as they can. Walking is much more a part of one's daily life here than back in the states.

Makeevka is a different story. Downtown is smaller here, and with far fewer clubs and restaraunts (at least that we saw.) It's a much less kempt city, and more run down in many aspects. While there are signs of new building, Makeevka appears further behind Donetsk. The park we walked a few days back is a good example. The memorial included cracked stonework, and aside from a very nice looking restaraunt, little in the park looked as if it'd been maintained.

Galya's orphanage is in Makeevka, and we don't guess she's been out of Makeevka much. One of the things we're wondering is how she'll react to America, which is much different from her native city. There isn't much for her to do there, at least to American eyes, other than walking about town. The orphanage is clean, comfortable, and relatively nice (not that we're experts on orphanages, but a Dickensian place this is not.) The staff is unfailingly nice and polite, if (as typical of this part of the world) direct. From that perspective, Galya's had it relatively good. But the pollution and unmaintained areas around the orphanage cannot be having a good impact on the health of her or the other children.

I am not trying to criticize either city. To an American, used to a commuting and mass media-consumerist culture, there is a great appeal in the slower pace, the more social pasttimes, and ease of getting around town without a car. I don't prefer everything about Ukraine over everything about America, but there are things here that I wish America'd pick up on. (Also, vice versa; I'm not a fan of the pollution here, or anything goes attitude toward traffic laws.)

Links:

• Donetsk ala Wikipedia


• Ukrainetrek.com's site on Donetsk - good pictures, and I've been fortunate enough to see most of the things shown there.


• Donetsk described by the U.S. Census Bureau back in 1999.


• Maps of Donetsk for the cartographically-interested.


• Makeevka ala Wikipedia


• Some pictures of Makeevka.


• More pictures of Makeevka.


• World Orphan Project and Quilts For Orphans items on Galya's orphanage. NOTE: I don't know anything about these charities; donate at your own risk, although if they're valid charities I'm all for advocating support. These kids do need the help.